Fabric Field Guide

A Quick Field Guide to Common Dress Fabrics

Fabric decides more about a dress than most people expect: how it hangs, how warm it feels, how it photographs and how much care it needs. Here is a practical rundown of the materials you will meet most often on dress labels, and what each one is good for.

Natural fibres

• Cotton is breathable, easy to wash and comfortable in heat. Poplin and lawn give crisp, structured shapes, while cotton voile is lighter and softer. Expect some creasing.
• Linen is one of the coolest fabrics for hot weather and softens with every wash. It wrinkles readily, which suits relaxed daytime looks better than formal ones.
• Silk has a natural sheen and drapes beautifully. Charmeuse is glossy and fluid, crepe de chine is matte and subtle. Silk often needs gentle hand washing or dry cleaning, so check the care label.
• Wool is not only for coats. Fine wool crepe makes elegant, warm dresses for cooler months and resists wrinkles well.

Man-made and blended fibres

• Viscose (rayon) drapes like silk at a lower cost and feels cool on the skin, but it can shrink if washed too warm.
• Polyester is durable, holds colour and resists creasing, which makes it practical for travel. It breathes less than natural fibres.
• Elastane blends add stretch, helping fitted styles move with you and recover their shape.

Reading the label

Look at the fibre percentages rather than the marketing name. A "satin" dress, for example, describes a weave, and it can be made from silk, polyester or a blend, each behaving very differently. Check whether the dress is lined, since a lining can make lightweight fabric more opaque and help it skim the body.

Season matters too. Breathable cottons, linens and light viscose suit warm days, as our notes on choosing a dress for a summer wedding explain, while heavier crepes, velvets and wool blends come into their own for winter weddings. Before buying, try a quick scrunch test: squeeze a corner for a few seconds and see how quickly the creases fall out.