Fit, Made Clear

Reading Your Measurements Before You Shop

Good fit starts with three numbers: bust, waist and hip. Measure over the underwear you plan to wear with the dress, keep the tape level and snug without pulling, and note each figure in both centimetres and inches so you can compare brands that use different systems. Add a fourth measurement, from the top of your shoulder to where you want the hem to fall, and you will know straight away whether a listed dress length suits you.

Why size labels disagree

A size 12 in one label can match a 10 or 14 in another, because every brand builds its patterns around its own fit model. Always check the brand's size chart rather than your usual size, and fit the dress to your largest measurement. Tailoring a dress in at the waist is simple and inexpensive; letting out a tight bust or hip is often impossible because there is little spare seam allowance.

Matching silhouette to the fit you want

• A-line skirts skim the hips, so the bodice measurement matters most.
• Sheath and bodycon styles follow every curve, so all three measurements need to line up with the chart, and stretch in the fabric makes a real difference.
• Wrap dresses adjust at the tie, which makes them forgiving across sizes, though check the neckline depth.
• Empire waists sit under the bust, so the underbust measurement is the key number.

Quick checks in the fitting room

Sit down, raise your arms and take a few steps. Look for fabric pulling across the bust or back, a waist seam riding above or below your natural waist, and straps that slip or dig in. If the shoulders fit and the rest is slightly loose, the dress is usually a good candidate for alteration. For event-specific advice, see our guide on what to wear to a semi-formal event, and for how fabric affects drape and stretch, read choosing a dress for a summer wedding.